東京奧運會上的「金牌」造型
Gold Medals in Style From the 2020 Tokyo Olympics

The 2020 Olympics in Tokyo have been among the strangest in memory. Delayed by a year, and unloved and underway in a host city that didn’t want them, the Games have still provided a bevy of brilliant sporting stories, including bold debuts and smashed records, underdog triumphs and superstar broken hearts.
2020年東京奧運會是記憶中最奇怪的一屆奧運會之一。雖然推遲了一年,面臨眾多民眾的反對,在一個並不想主辦它的城市舉行,但它還是提供了一大堆精彩的體育新聞,包括大膽的首次亮相和打破紀錄,以弱勝強和超級明星的心碎。
They were also big on style. Wild tattoos and unisex team uniforms, kaleidoscopic hairdos and hand-knit cardigans: Tokyo has had it all. Here are some of the highlights.
在時尚方面,也有很多可以說道的。狂野的紋身、不分性別的隊服、千變萬化的髮型和手工編織的羊毛衫:這些都出現在了東京。以下是其中一些亮點。
Cupcake Couture by Tomo Koizumi at the Opening Ceremony
開幕式上小泉智貴設計的紙杯蛋糕裙
Tomo Koizumi gained international recognition after finding a fan in Lady Gaga, who wore his designs, and a breakout New York Fashion Week debut in 2019 masterminded by the stylist Katie Grand. Known for his frothy candy-colored organza ball gowns, the Japanese designer made headlines once again when he dressed the singer Misia for the Olympic opening ceremony.
小泉智貴(Tomo Koizumi)有了Lady Gaga這個粉絲後獲得了國際認可;2019年登陸紐約時裝週,由造型師凱蒂·格蘭德(Katie Grand)一手引薦,結果一炮而紅。這位日本設計師以糖果色透明硬紗晚禮服而聞名,歌手米西亞(Misia)穿著他設計的禮服在奧運會開幕式上表演,使他再次登上新聞頭條。
As she sang the Japanese national anthem, Misia wore a vibrant rainbow-hued dress with puffed sleeves and dense white layers of recycled organza that cascaded toward the hem in cloudlike waves of spray-painted pink, orange, yellow and green. Forget the flame; for a moment, the creation of a self-taught, homegrown fashion talent lit up a near-empty stadium.
演唱日本國歌時,米西亞穿了一件充滿活力的彩虹色長裙,蓬蓬袖,厚厚的可回收白色透明硬紗層層疊疊,傾瀉而下,漸變為粉色、橙色、黃色和綠色,似雲朵般的波浪。忘掉聖火吧,在某一刻,一個自學成才的本土時尚天才,用創意照亮了一個幾乎空無一人的體育場。

Telfar’s One-Shouldered Unisex Uniforms for Liberia
特爾法為利比裡亞隊設計的單肩中性隊服
This year the most fashion-forward team uniforms weren’t on athletes from countries with fashion capitals, like the United States, Italy and France. Instead, it was Liberia that proved willing to take a leap of faith.
今年,最銳意進取的隊服不是穿在來自美國、義大利和法國等擁有時尚之都國家的運動員身上。事實證明,願意冒險一搏的是利比裡亞。
Liberia’s three athletes wore unisex unitards and silk mesh basketball tunics, one-shouldered tank tops and loosefitting tracksuits in shades of blue, red and white sprinkled with stars in a nod to the colors and symbol of the Liberian flag. They were the brainchild of the Liberian-American fashion designer Telfar Clemens, who is based in New York. Liberia may not have won a medal in Tokyo, but it went for gold when it came to the style stakes.
利比裡亞的三名運動員穿著不分性別的連體服和絲綢網眼籃球衫,單肩背心和寬鬆的藍紅白運動服,點綴以星星,這是對利比裡亞的國旗和標識致敬。它們是現居紐約的利比裡亞裔美國時裝設計師特爾法·克萊門斯(Telfar Clemens)的創意。利比裡亞在東京沒有贏得獎牌,在時尚方面卻是直奔金牌而去。

AirPods Everywhere (But Especially on Skaters)
AirPods無處不在(特別是在滑板運動員身上)
Medals and Olympic ring tattoos weren’t the only ubiquitous accessory this year: AirPods were everywhere. In particular, they were in force at the skatepark, where dozens of athletes sailed through the air with beats from their buds blasting into their ears (and in some cases, the iPhones in their back pockets). The American skater Jagger Eaton even stopped to search for an AirPod he’d lost during a trick, before going on to win a bronze medal in the men’s street event.
獎牌和奧運五環紋身並不是今年唯一的常見配飾:AirPods也無處不在。滑板場上,它們尤為常見,數十名運動員在空中飛躍,耳機裡是震耳欲聾的節拍(有時候,iPhone就放在後兜裡)。美國滑板選手賈格爾·伊頓(Jagger Eaton)在贏得男子街頭滑板項目銅牌之前甚至停下來尋找表演時丟失的一個AirPod。
Indeed, skateboarding, which made its official Olympics debut in Tokyo, brought with it new ideas on what it means to dress to perform as athletes, including the 13-year-old British bronze medalist Sky Brown in her pinstripe pants; Kokona Hiraki of Japan in a white Nike boiler suit; and the Finnish skateboarder Lizzie Armanto, who designed her own uniforms.
的確,在東京奧運會上首次正式亮相的滑板項目,給運動員的表演著裝帶來了新的思路,包括13歲的英國銅牌得主斯凱·布朗(Sky Brown),她比賽時穿著細條紋褲子;日本選手開心那(Kokona Hiraki)穿著白色耐吉連身衣;芬蘭滑板選手莉齊·阿曼托(Lizzie Armanto)穿的是她自己設計的衣服。

The Brouhaha Over the German Gymnasts’ Unitards
德國體操運動員的緊身衣風波
Female gymnasts competing at the Olympics have worn bikini-cut leotards for decades. But in the early qualifying rounds in Tokyo, the German women’s gymnastics team took to the mat in mid-sleeve, long-legged unitards. They were worn, the team said, in a stand against “sexualization” in the sport.
參加奧運會的女子體操運動員幾十年來一直穿著比基尼式緊身衣。但在東京預賽的早期階段,德國女子體操隊穿著中袖長腿緊身衣上了墊子。她們說,此舉是為了反對這項運動中的「性化」。
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The subsequent controversy sparked major debate — on culture, on rule makers, on who gets to say what female athletes wear. The German team may not have progressed beyond the early rounds in Tokyo, but its choice of clothing left a lingering reminder of the latent objectification still faced by some female athletes.
隨後的爭議引發了激烈的辯論——關於文化,關於規則制定者,關於誰有權決定女運動員穿什麼。在東京奧運會,德國隊沒有走太遠,但它對服裝的選擇讓人不由地想到,一些女性運動員仍然面臨潛在的物化。
Nor were the German athletes the only ones making statements with what they wore. Three members of the United States men’s fencing team wore pink masks to protest the presence of a teammate accused of sexual misconduct.
德國運動員不是唯一用衣著來表明立場的人。美國男子擊劍隊的三名隊員戴上了粉色口罩,抗議與一名被控性行為不端的隊友同場。

The Winning Hair and Nail Choices
勝出的髮型和美甲之選
From Naomi Osaka’s scarlet braids and the hurdler Christina Clemons’s butterfly clips, to the sprinter Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce’s two-tone neon ponytail and the weight lifter Emily Jade Campbell’s half and half colored space buns, Tokyo has been awash with unapologetic and individualistic hair styles. In part, this is a reflection of modern athletes’ mind-sets and determination to be themselves. And for some Olympians, bold hair, acrylic nails and jewelry are a celebration of Black female prowess on a high-profile global platform.
從大坂直美(Naomi Osaka)的紅色辮子、跨欄運動員克里斯蒂娜·克萊蒙斯(Christina Clemons)的蝴蝶髮夾,到短跑運動員雪莉—安·弗雷澤-普萊斯(Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce)的雙色霓虹馬尾辮;以及舉重運動員艾米麗·傑德·坎貝爾(Emily Jade Campbell)頭頂一邊一個彩色髮髻,東京奧運會上充斥著大膽的個性髮型。在某種程度上,這反映了現代運動員的心態和做自己的決心。對於一些奧運選手來說,大膽的髮型、指甲造型和珠寶,是在一個高調的全球平台上慶祝黑人女性實力的方式。
The British track star Dina Asher-Smith’s highbrow manicure by the nail artist Emily Gilmour featured a recreation of the Japanese Hokusai artwork “The Great Wave Off Kanagawa.” The Swiss tennis player Belinda Bencic, the French shooter Mélanie Couzy and the Hong Kong swimmer Camille Cheng all wore patriotic tips. And at least one athlete offered a performance-focused slant for her look. Sunisa Lee, who won the all-around gymnastics gold for the United States, said that her long, square-shaped Olympic rings acrylics (courtesy of Little Luxuries Nail Lounge in Minneapolis) brought her “good luck” and helped her compete.
英國田徑明星迪娜·阿舍-史密斯(Dina Asher-Smith)的高雅指甲造型由美甲師艾米麗·吉爾摩(Emily Gilmour)設計,它重現了葛飾北齋的名作《神奈川衝浪裡》、法國射擊運動員梅蘭妮·庫齊(Mélanie Couzy)和香港游泳運動員鄭莉梅的指甲造型都有愛國圖案。至少一名運動員表示,造型是為了提高成績。為美國贏得體操全能金牌的蘇妮莎·李(Sunisa Lee)說,她那長長的方形奧運五環假指甲(由明尼阿波利斯的Little deluxe Nail Lounge提供)給她帶來了「好運」,幫助她贏得了比賽。
“Whenever I miss the bar, it hurts really bad, so it makes me catch the bar,” Ms. Lee said. “That’s why I get them.”
蘇妮莎·李說,「每次沒抓到杠都會很疼,所以它促使我去抓住杠,」她說。「這就是我戴假指甲的原因。」

Inked Skin Was In, Despite Local Tattoo Taboos
儘管當地有禁忌,文身還是很流行
Tattoos may be considered taboo in Japan, but they were omnipresent on the elite athletes gathered in Tokyo. While countless stars have Olympic rings commemoratively inked on their feet, arms, necks or abs — the gymnast Simone Biles and the swimmers Caeleb Dressel and Adam Peaty among them — others showed off more ambitious body art.
在日本,文身可能被視為禁忌,但在聚集於東京的頂級運動員身上,文身無處不在。無數明星都把奧運五環文在腳上、胳膊上、脖子上或腹肌上作為紀念——體操運動員西蒙·拜爾斯(Simone Biles)、游泳運動員凱勒布·德雷塞爾(Caeleb Dressel)和亞當·皮蒂(Adam Peaty)都位列其中——其他人則展示了更野心勃勃的身體藝術。
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“It slowly just became an addiction,” the American skateboarder Nyjah Huston said of his sprawling sleeve and neck tattoos. Mr. Peaty, of Britain, who has a large lion on his arm, said the tattoo “represented not fearing who I am up against.”
「它慢慢成了一種癮,」美國滑板運動員奈雅·休士頓(Nyjah Huston)談到蔓延在他手臂和脖子上的文身時說。來自英國的皮蒂胳膊上有一頭大獅子,他說,這個文身「代表著不畏懼我所面對的對手」。
And the Puerto Rican hurdler Jasmine Camacho-Quinn paid tribute to the “todo es posible” (anything is possible) tattoo on the inside of her wrist. She got the tattoo after falling in the semifinals in Rio in 2016.
波多黎各跨欄選手賈絲明·卡馬喬-奎恩(Jasmine Camacho-Quinn)沒有忘記手腕內側的「todo es possible」(一切皆有可能)文身的功勞。2016年在里約奧運會半決賽中失利後,她文上了這個文身。
“I wasn’t going to let that race take over my life,” she said after winning gold in the 100-meter hurdles in Tokyo. “It’s on my lead arm when I run. It comes up to my face. So it’s kind of like a message too.” (She also has a tattoo of Puerto Rico overlaid with Olympic rings on her bicep.)
「我不會讓比賽佔據我的生活,」她在東京贏得100米跨欄金牌後說。「當我跑步的時候,它就在我的引導臂上。它會到我面前。所以這也像一種訊息。」(她的二頭肌上還文有波多黎各地圖,上面疊加著奧運五環。)

Nastia Liukin’s Glittering TV Wardrobe
娜斯佳·柳金的閃亮電視衣櫥
Hair jewels, bold color prints and lots of bare skin. All familiar sights in the gymnastic arena, perhaps, but less so on television commentators. Step forward, Nastia Liukin.
珠寶髮飾、大膽的彩色印花和大量裸露的皮膚。也許這些都是體操場上熟悉的景象,但在電視評論員們身上就不那麼熟悉了。娜斯佳·柳金(Nastia Liukin)走上前來。
Ms. Liukin clearly honed her personal style from her own time on the mat: She is the 2008 Olympics all-around champion and a five-time medalist for the United States. As a pundit for NBC this year, she brought her wardrobe A-game to Tokyo. The looks included a tangerine power suit with matching Nike sneakers, a shimmering raspberry jacket and leather shorts, a one-shouldered pink pantsuit with flared legs and a braid inspired by Elsa from “Frozen.”
柳金顯然是在自己的體操生涯中磨練出了個人風格:她是2008年奧運會體操全能冠軍,為美國贏得了五枚獎牌。作為美國全國廣播公司(NBC)今年的評論員,她把自己的拿手好戲——衣著——搬到了東京。這些裝扮包括橘紅色套裝和同色耐吉運動鞋,閃閃發光的樹莓色夾克和短皮褲,粉色單肩連身喇叭褲和以《冰雪奇緣》(Frozen)中艾爾莎(Elsa)為靈感的編髮。
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Ms. Liukin’s stylist, Gabriela Tena, told Women’s Wear Daily that there had been intensive preparation for her moment in the spotlight.
柳金的造型師加布裡埃拉·特納(Gabriela Tena)告訴《女裝日報》(Women’s Wear Daily),他們為她的焦點時刻做了密集準備。
“Everything is thought out, really symbolic and very detailed regarding the colors that she’s wearing,” Ms. Tena said. “We try to do a different color for each look.”
「她穿的每件衣服都是經過深思熟慮的,非常有象徵意義,也非常細緻,」特納說。「我們試著在每個造型上運用不同的顏色。」

Tom Daley Unwinding in the Stands
在看台上放鬆的湯姆·戴利(Tom Daley)
Days after Tom Daley won his gold medal in the men’s synchronized 10-meter platform, the British diver became the center of attention once again when he was spotted knitting in the spectator stands. The internet was in stitches.
在湯姆·戴利贏得男子雙人10米跳台金牌幾天後,這位英國跳水運動員再次成為關注焦點,因為人們發現他在觀眾席上織毛衣。整個互聯網都忍俊不禁。
It soon emerged that Mr. Daley’s talents extend far beyond making purple dog sweaters. On a dedicated Instagram account with almost a million followers, he posts snaps of his crafty creations, including colorful crochet sweaters that would give Jonathan Anderson a run for his money, and a little flag-emblazoned pouch for the latest addition to his trophy cabinet.
很快人們就發現,戴利的才能遠遠超出了製作紫色狗狗毛衣的範圍。在一個擁有近100萬粉絲的Instagram專用帳戶上,他發布了自己精心創作的圖片,包括能和喬納森·安德森(Jonathan Anderson)一較高下的彩色鉤針毛衣,以及為他獎牌陳列櫃裡的最新成員製作的一個飾有國旗的小袋子。
“The one thing that has kept me sane throughout this whole process is my love for knitting and crochet and all things stitching,” he said in a video, before displaying his latest and most ambitious D.I.Y. project yet: an oversize cream cardigan with the Olympic rings and “Team GB” on the back.
「在整個過程中,有一件事讓我保持理智,那就是我對針織、鉤針和所有針線活的熱愛,」他在一段影片中說。隨後,他展示了自己最新、也是最雄心勃勃的DIY項目:一件背後織有奧運五環和「Team GB」(英國隊)字樣的大號奶油色毛衣開衫。